News

Centella Asiatica Extract: Asiaticoside and Madecassoside as Triterpenoid Lead Markers

Centella asiatica, also known as tiger grass or pennywort, is one of the most intensively documented botanical raw materials for cosmetic formulation. The CONIUNCTA® Centella Asiatica Extract (INCI: Centella Asiatica Extract) is extracted with purified water and is available in three carrier variants: Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, and Pentylene Glycol. For formulators, this results in a flexible raw material whose characteristic profile is based on a group of pentacyclic triterpenoids. This article classifies the documented markers, the supported claim areas, and the differences between the carrier systems. The triterpenoid complex as an analytical signature Characteristic of Centella asiatica is a complex of pentacyclic triterpenoids. As the primary marker, the data sheet indicates Asiaticoside at 0.2 to 1.1 mg/g (calculated, relative to the extract); the literature content in the dried plant is 1 to 4%. In addition, the CDS documents Madecassoside (0.5 to 2%), Asiatic acid (0.3 to 1.5%), and Madecassic acid (0.3 to 1%). The sum of total triterpenoids, i.e. Asiaticoside and Madecassoside plus the free acids, is typically 2 to 8%. These compounds form the analytical signature of the extract and serve as the reference point for batch characterization. For formulators, this provides a traceable basis: the markers are quantitatively documented in the CDS and can be matched via the Certificate of Analysis (CoA) of the respective batch. Essential oil and fragrance substance assessment According to the CDS, the essential oil content of the dried plant is 0.03 to 0.14%. The highest labelling-relevant fragrance substance (Annex III relevant) is beta-Caryophyllene, at a maximum of 0.525 mg/kg in the finished product at 5% use concentration (calculated, worst case). This value is below the labelling threshold of 10 mg/kg for leave-on products. Accordingly, the fragrance substance contribution under Annex III of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 remains below the labelling threshold even at the upper use concentration. The final assessment in the finished product is the responsibility of the responsible person under cosmetics regulation. Supported cosmetic claim areas The CDS lists the following supported claim areas for the Centella Asiatica Extract: astringent, anti-ageing, balancing, and skin-plumping. These areas require independent substantiation by the manufacturer of the finished product under Regulation (EU) No. 655/2013. As mechanistic background (explicitly not a product claim), the data sheet cites the documented formulations