The seeds of the horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) are the starting material for our Horse Chestnut Extract with the INCI Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract. The liquid extract is obtained with purified water and offered in three aqueous carrier variants: glycerin, propylene glycol/water and pentylene glycol/water. The product is available in conventional quality, suitable for vegans according to the CDS, and usable in cosmetics in all variants. The glycerin variant is additionally intended for food. For formulators, buyers and product developers, we summarise here what the data sheets say about the lead marker aescin, the accompanying substances, the carrier systems and the key regulatory data.
Aescin in horse chestnut seed: calculated contents and their basis
The CDS names Aescin (Escin), a complex of triterpene saponins, as the primary marker. For the dried herbal material, the literature reports an aescin content of 3 to 6 %. The European Pharmacopoeia (Ph. Eur.) specifies a minimum content of 3 % aescin for the seed. This figure is a quality specification for the starting material and not evidence of an effect in the final product.
On this basis, the CDS calculates an aescin content of 0.6 to 1.6 mg/g for the extract. This is based on a drug-extract ratio (DER) of 1:10, an extract share of 30 % (corresponding to 30 g of dried seeds per kg of product) and an assumed extraction efficiency of 70 to 90 %. Important for documentation: these are calculated values, not analytically determined ones. The CDS also breaks them down to example concentrations:
- Cosmetics, at 3.5 % use level: 22.1 to 56.7 µg aescin per g of formulation
- Food, at 1.25 % use level: 7.9 to 20.3 µg aescin per g of formulation
If content claims are required for a finished product, this classification as a calculated value should be taken into account in the specification and the product information file.
Accompanying substances: aesculin, proanthocyanidins and other substance classes
In addition to aescin, the CDS lists further compounds, exclusively as literature data: the coumarin derivative aesculin at 0.5 to 1.5 % and proanthocyanidins at 1 to 3 %. Qualitatively, flavonoids, saponins and anthocyanins are named as characteristic substance classes. No quantitative values for the product itself are available for these accompanying substances.
The coumarin aspect is relevant from a regulatory perspective. According to the CDS, the coumarin content in the aqueous extract is minimal. At the same time, the data sheet refers to a fragrance-related restriction for coumarins in cosmetic products. Annex III fragrance allergens cannot be derived from the available data. These points belong in the safety assessment, which under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 is the responsibility of the responsible person for the finished product.
Cosmetic claim profile: firming, de-puffing and skin-plumping
For cosmetics, the CDS lists the effects "De-puffing" and "firming". As supported claim areas it names "Anti-ageing", "Balancing", "Invigorating", "Moisture-promoting" and "Skin-plumping". This makes the extract a botanical building block for care concepts aimed at a firmer and plumper-looking complexion.
In addition, the CDS describes the functions of the substance classes contained:
- Flavonoids: antioxidant
- Saponins: "Surfactant, soothing", i.e. surface-active and calming
- Anthocyanins: antioxidant and colour-active
The colour-active component and the light brown to brown intrinsic colour of the extract should be factored in when colouring light or transparent formulations. The surface-active nature of the saponins is a point developers should keep in mind during stability testing. The CDS makes clear that claim substantiation is the responsibility of the manufacturer of the finished product (Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 Art. 4 and 20, Regulation (EU) 655/2013).
Glycerin, propylene glycol or pentylene glycol: three aqueous systems compared
Regardless of the carrier, all three variants contain approx. 30 % extract fraction; 1 kg of product contains the hydrophilic constituents of approx. 30 g of dried seeds. There is no lipophilic oil variant for this extract; all carriers are hydrophilic and therefore designed for aqueous phases. The differences lie in the composition and the INCI declaration:
- Glycerin: approx. 70 % anhydrous glycerin (≥ 99.5 %), approx. 30 % extract fraction. EU INCI: Glycerin, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract. Global INCI: Glycerin, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract. Suitable for cosmetics and food.
- Propylene glycol/water: approx. 40 % water, approx. 30 % extract, approx. 30 % propylene glycol. EU INCI: Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract. Global INCI: Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract. Suitable for cosmetics.
- Pentylene glycol/water: approx. 50 % water, approx. 30 % extract, approx. 20 % pentylene glycol. EU INCI: Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract. Global INCI: Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract. Suitable for cosmetics.
In practice, the overall concept is often decisive: for product lines serving both cosmetics and food, or for glycol-free INCI lists, the glycerin variant is the obvious choice. If a formulation already contains propylene glycol or pentylene glycol, the extract can be incorporated via the matching carrier without an additional declaration entry. The TDS specify a cosmetic use range of 2 to 5 % for all variants. You can find further glycerin-based raw materials in our Glycerin Extracts collection, and the entire range of classic botanicals under Classic Plant Extracts. Our technical team will answer specific formulation and dosage questions.
Food application: glycerin variant only
According to the CDS, TDS and SDS, only the glycerin carrier variant is intended for food. The CDS lists the extract in this area as a "Traditional dietary ingredient" and, as literature data, names a use range of 0.5 to 2 % in functional foods and beverages. Allergen labelling under Regulation (EU) 1169/2011 and the food law classification of the final product are the responsibility of the food business operator. The calculated aescin values for 1.25 % use mentioned above help with estimation but do not replace product-specific analysis.
Safety data, storage and documentation
According to the SDS, the extract is not a hazardous substance within the meaning of the CLP Regulation (EC) 1272/2008: no pictogram, no signal word, no H or P statements. It is not dangerous goods under ADR/RID, IMDG and IATA, does not fall under Seveso III and is classified as WGK 1 (slightly hazardous to water, all carrier variants) and storage class LGK 12. As a mixture, the product is not subject to REACH registration; the extract is exempt under Annex V No. 8. For handling, the SDS specifies safety glasses according to EN 166; for glycerin an occupational exposure limit (AGW) of 200 mg/m³ applies (inhalable fraction, TRGS 900).
Shelf life is 24 months when stored dry between 10 and 30 °C in the originally sealed container; the SDS states a storage temperature of 15 to 25 °C. The extract is a light brown to brown, clear liquid with slight turbidity. During storage the colour may change depending on temperature; in case of turbidity or precipitation, filtration is required, with no effect on product quality. pH value and relative density are stated per carrier variant in the CoA. We provide TDS, SDS and CDS via our technical documentation. For samples and specification questions, contact us at info@coniuncta.com or +49 911 47715370.
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