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Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid): the stable, amphiphilic vitamin C derivative for cosmetics

With EFFECTICS® 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, CONIUNCTA® introduces a defined vitamin C derivative with the INCI name 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (CAS 86404-04-8). Unlike the botanical extracts in the portfolio, this is not a plant extract but a synthetically produced, 100% active ingredient. For formulators, this raw material is especially interesting because it combines the antioxidant properties of vitamin C with significantly improved stability and an amphiphilic solubility profile, meaning compatibility with both water and oil. The raw material is intended exclusively for cosmetic applications in accordance with Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and is suitable for vegan formulations. What is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid? 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a vitamin C derivative in which ascorbic acid is ethylated at the 3-O position. This chemical modification is the core of the raw material: it protects the reactive molecule from the rapid oxidation that makes pure ascorbic acid unstable in aqueous systems. The result is an active ingredient with a defined purity of 100% primary marker (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid), which is more predictable to handle in formulation than unstabilized vitamin C. Internationally common search terms such as "3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid," "acide éthylascorbique," or "ácido etilascórbico" all refer to the same active ingredient. In German-speaking regions, the short form Ethylascorbinsäure is commonly used. In all cases, the authoritative regulatory identifier is the INCI name 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. Physical properties and solubility profile The raw material is a white to cream-colored crystalline powder and is odorless. According to the TDS, it is easily soluble in water and soluble in methanol and ethanol. Crucial for formulation practice is its amphiphilic nature: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is compatible with both water and oil, allowing it to be incorporated more flexibly into different bases than purely hydrophilic vitamin C forms. Appearance: white to cream-colored crystalline powder Odor: odorless pH value: 3.0 to 6.0 (3% aqueous solution) Solubility: easily soluble in water, soluble in methanol and ethanol, amphiphilic CAS number: 86404-04-8 Documented performance profile The effects of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid documented in the CDS include antioxidant protection, anti-ageing, astringent, as well as balancing and conditioning properties; elasticity support is also mentioned. These aspects make the raw material a candidate for antioxidant and skin-care formulation concepts. Important note regarding claims on the finished product: all product-related performance claims require independent substantiation by the finished product manufacturer in accordance with Regulation (EC) No. 655/2013. The properties mentioned here refer to the documented profile of the raw material and are to be classified under cosmetics law; they do not constitute medical claims. Why a stabilized vitamin C derivative? Pure ascorbic acid is considered an effective but sensitive antioxidant that tends to discolor and lose efficacy in aqueous formulations. Ethylation at the 3-O position specifically addresses this weak point. For formulators, this means more predictable processing and a more robust base, especially in systems where pure ascorbic acid is difficult to keep stable. The amphiphilic solubility also extends the scope of application beyond classic aqueous serums. Frequently asked question: What distinguishes 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid from pure ascorbic acid? The key difference lies in the chemical modification at the 3-O position, which gives the molecule improved stability and amphiphilic solubility. While pure ascorbic acid is hydrophilic and prone to oxidation, the derivative can be used in both water- and oil-based systems and is more robust to handle. Usage concentration, storage, and handling According to documentation, the cosmetic use concentration ranges from 0.5 to 5.0%; in intensive treatments, up to 30% is possible according to the TDS (the Shopify specification field states a use range of 0.5 to 15%). The specific concentration depends on the formulation goal, base, and compatibility testing by the finished product manufacturer. For storage, the TDS recommends 2 to 8 °C, protected from light and moisture, in tightly closed original packaging. Under these conditions, the shelf life is 24 months. Color changes may occur during storage depending on temperature; in the case of turbidity or precipitation, filtration is possible without affecting quality. According to the SDS, the raw material is not classified as hazardous under Regulation (EC) No. 1272/2008, is not subject to transport hazard classification, and shows no PBT/vPvB or endocrine-disrupting properties; eye protection is recommended during processing, and respiratory protection only in case of dust or aerosol formation. Technical documentation and sourcing for B2B customers For evaluation and incorporation, CONIUNCTA® provides complete technical documentation: you can find the TDS, SDS, and CDS in our technical documentation. In addition, the product list provides an overview of the entire raw material portfolio, and the overview of our certifications documents the company's quality standards. As a defined vitamin C derivative with high purity and an amphiphilic solubility profile, EFFECTICS® 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is suitable for antioxidant and skin-care formulations in a professional context. View EFFECTICS® Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in the CONIUNCTA® shop or contact us directly at info@coniuncta.com or +49 911 47715370 for data sheets and sample requests. CONIUNCTA® – Raw materials, data, and services for future-proof formulations.