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Arbutin and Tannins from Bearberry Leaf: Bearberry Extract (Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract) for Brightening and Astringent Concepts

The leaf of the bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is the starting material for our Bearberry Extract, declared as Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract (CAS 84776-10-3). The extract is obtained exclusively with purified water using our AVE Technology (Adaptive Vacuum Extraction). It is then offered in one of three hydrophilic carrier variants: glycerin, pentylene glycol or propylene glycol. The product is listed in conventional quality. For formulators, the interplay of the hydroquinone glycoside arbutin as primary marker, tannins and flavonoids is particularly relevant. In addition, the glycerin variant is also designated as food grade. Arbutin in bearberry leaf: what the CDS specifically states According to our Compound Data Sheet (CDS), the arbutin content in the product is 1.1 to 3.2 mg/g. One detail is crucial for specification work: this is a calculated value, not an analytically determined one. The calculation is based on the literature content of the herbal drug of 5 to 12 % arbutin. The Ph. Eur. specification for bearberry leaf states a minimum content of 7.0 % arbutin. This figure is a quality requirement for the plant material and not evidence of efficacy. The conversion to the extract results from the manufacturing method. The drug-extract ratio (DER) is 1:10, and the extract content is approx. 30 % regardless of the carrier variant. In practical terms, this means: 1 kg of CONIUNCTA® extract contains the hydrophilic constituents of approx. 30 g of dried leaves. The CDS additionally converts the arbutin content to the average use concentrations in cosmetics and food, allowing the arbutin input into the finished product to be estimated. Anyone wishing to include arbutin in their own finished product specification should take the calculated nature of these values into account. Methylarbutin, gallotannins and flavonoids: the accompanying spectrum In addition to arbutin, the CDS lists further compounds and substance classes of the leaf: Methylarbutin, with a literature value of 1 to 4 % Gallic acid tannins (gallotannins), with a literature value of 6 to 12 % Tannins as the overarching substance class Flavonoids This spectrum makes Bearberry Extract a multi-component raw material rather than an isolated single substance. For development, this means that the colour and sensory properties of the extract are shaped by the entire hydrophilic leaf matrix. The data sheet describes the colour as amber to light brown. Accordingly, the inherent colour should be considered early in development for clear, colourless systems. Brightening, astringent, antioxidant: the documented cosmetic profile The CDS assigns cosmetic functions to the substance classes. Flavonoids are attributed an antioxidant function, tannins an astringent one, and arbutin the function of brightening. Antioxidant is documented as the effect for cosmetics. In addition, the CDS lists the following claim areas for cosmetic applications: astringent, anti-ageing, balancing, moisturising, glow or radiance, and skin plumping. Although skin plumping is listed in the CDS, it is missing from its summary. This is a point regulatory teams should keep in mind when selecting claims. Important for communication on the finished product: substantiation of claims lies with the manufacturer of the end product, in accordance with Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 Art. 20 and Regulation (EU) 655/2013. Concept areas can be derived from the claim areas, such as aqueous brightening and glow concepts or astringent, balancing care concepts. Since all three carrier variants are hydrophilic, the extract is designed for the aqueous phase. CDS and TDS state a use concentration of 2 to 5 % for cosmetics. Our technical team addresses specific formulation and dosage questions individually. Glycerin, pentylene glycol or propylene glycol: three preparations compared The extract content is the same in all variants, but the matrix differs significantly. This has direct consequences for INCI declaration, water content and field of application: Glycerin variant: approx. 70 % glycerin and approx. 30 % extract fraction. Standardisation takes place in anhydrous glycerin (at least 99.5 %). Declared INCI (Global/EU): Glycerin, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract. It is the only variant suitable for both food and cosmetics. Propylene glycol variant: aqueous-glycolic preparation with approx. 40 % water, approx. 30 % extract and approx. 30 % propylene glycol. INCI (EU/Global): Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract. Cosmetics only. Pentylene glycol variant: aqueous-glycolic with approx. 50 % water, approx. 30 % extract and approx. 20 % pentylene glycol. INCI (EU): Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract. Cosmetics only. The overall formulation is usually decisive for the choice. A formulation whose INCI list already includes glycerin can take up the glycerin variant without an additional solvent in the declaration. Those already working with propylene glycol or pentylene glycol can include the carrier glycol in the existing glycol phase. Water content should also be considered: the two glycolic variants contribute 40 and 50 % water respectively, while the glycerin variant is standardised in anhydrous glycerin. Our collection Glycerin Extracts offers an overview of further extracts on this basis. Food side: only the glycerin variant is suitable A clear distinction applies for food supplement and functional food developers: only the glycerin variant is food grade; the TDS of the glycolic variants expressly state food use as not applicable. The CDS lists the extract for food as a "Traditional dietary ingredient" and cites a literature use concentration of 0.5 to 2 % in functional foods and beverages. According to the CDS, the extract is suitable for vegans. According to the CDS, Annex III allergens cannot be derived, and allergen labelling under the Food Information Regulation (LMIV) is the responsibility of the food business operator. Colour, storage and safety data for purchasing and QA Shelf life is 24 months when stored dry between 10 and 30 °C in the originally sealed container. The safety data sheet specifies tightly closed at 15 to 25 °C as the storage condition. Depending on storage duration and temperature, colour changes may occur. Should cloudiness or precipitation occur, filtration is required. Neither affects the quality of the product. pH value at 25 °C and relative density are stated per carrier variant in the certificate of analysis (CoA). The SDS provides the following key data for purchasing and logistics: not a hazardous substance and no labelling under CLP (Regulation (EC) 1272/2008); not PBT/vPvB WGK 1 (slightly hazardous to water) for all carrier variants, storage class 12 according to TRGS 510 not dangerous goods under ADR/RID, IMDG and IATA; not subject to Seveso III REACH: exempt as an extract under Annex V No. 8, therefore no registration number not a biocidal product within the meaning of the BPR The safety assessment under Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 is carried out by the responsible person for the finished product. We provide TDS, SDS and CDS for all three variants via our technical documentation. Samples, documents and advice on Bearberry Extract Bearberry Extract complements our range of classic plant extracts with a water-extracted leaf extract featuring arbutin as primary marker. For project enquiries, samples and questions about the right carrier variant, contact us at info@coniuncta.com or by phone at +49 911 47715370. Our technical team provides individual advice. You will find all variants and specifications directly in the shop: View Bearberry Extract in the CONIUNCTA® shop. CONIUNCTA®: raw materials, data and services for future-ready formulations.