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Bee Balm Extract (Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract): Rosmarinic Acid from the Leaf for Soothing and Glow Concepts

Bee balm, botanically Monarda didyma and also known as scarlet bee balm or Oswego tea, provides with its leaf the starting material for our Bee Balm Extract with the INCI Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract. CONIUNCTA® offers the liquid extract, light green in colour according to specification, in three carrier variants: glycerin, pentylene glycol and propylene glycol. The product is of conventional quality, is suitable for vegans according to the CDS and can be used in cosmetics and, exclusively in the glycerin variant, in food supplements. Of interest to formulators is the combination of rosmarinic acid as a documented primary marker, a clearly defined cosmetic claim framework and calculated fragrance allergen values below the labelling threshold within the stated use range. Rosmarinic acid as the primary marker of the bee balm leaf The CDS identifies rosmarinic acid, a compound from the group of hydroxycinnamic acids, as the primary marker of the extract. For the dried herbal drug, the cited literature reports contents of 0.5 to 2 % (Litvinenko 2003, Pharm Chem J). The content in the extract derived from this is explicitly labelled in the CDS as a calculated, semi-quantitative estimate based on limited data. In practice this means: rosmarinic acid describes the compositional profile of the extract but is not a specified content parameter. Functionally, the CDS assigns the properties "antioxidant" and "soothing" to rosmarinic acid. The extract is obtained using purified water as the extraction solvent. Regardless of the carrier variant, the extract content is approx. 30 %; according to the product data, 1 kg of CONIUNCTA® extract contains the hydrophilic constituents of approx. 30 g of dried plant parts. Flavonoids, tannins and a thymol-rich chemotype In addition to rosmarinic acid, the CDS lists flavonoids, polyphenols and tannins as characteristic constituents. This information is qualitative and literature-based; no content values are given. The data sheet assigns an antioxidant function to the flavonoids and polyphenols and an astringent function to the tannins. The result is a profile that combines antioxidant properties with an astringent component. Regarding the herbal drug, the CDS also notes a thymol-rich essential oil chemotype with an essential oil content of 0.26 to 0.75 % as well as carvacrol as a further compound. For formulators, this aspect is relevant mainly with regard to fragrance allergens, for which the CDS also provides a calculated assessment. Cosmetic claim framework: from soothing to pore-refining Under cosmetic effect, the CDS states "Skin conditioning, antioxidant". In addition, the data sheet lists five supported claim areas that translate well into modern skincare concepts: Balancing: balancing Soothing: calming Elasticity support: support of skin elasticity Glow / radiance: radiance and glow Pore-refining: refining the appearance of pores Important for product development: substantiation of these claims for the finished product lies with the responsible person under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 (Art. 4 and 20) and Regulation (EU) 655/2013. The raw material provides the documented framework; the claim itself is substantiated at the level of the finished product. Concept directions follow directly from the claim areas, for example skincare products focusing on calming, radiance or a refined skin appearance. Fragrance allergens: calculated below the leave-on threshold Because the herbal drug contains essential oil, the CDS has assessed the fragrance allergens according to Annex III of the Cosmetics Regulation by calculation. Result: up to a use level of 5 %, the calculated values are below the labelling threshold of 10 mg/kg for leave-on products. For linalool, the CDS reports a worst-case maximum of 6.77 mg/kg in the finished product at 5 % use. By calculation, the threshold would only be reached at more than 7.4 % use, i.e. above the documented use concentration of 2 to 5 %. For brands that wish to avoid fragrance allergens in their declaration wherever possible, this is a relevant data point. The final assessment, including other fragrance-containing raw materials in the formulation, takes place as part of the safety assessment of the finished product. Glycerin, pentylene glycol or propylene glycol: three carriers compared All three variants contain approx. 30 % extract and are suitable for cosmetics; the use concentration is stated as 2 to 5 % in each case. Differences lie in the carrier system, the INCI declaration and food suitability: Glycerin variant: approx. 70 % glycerin in anhydrous quality (≥ 99.5 %), approx. 30 % extract. INCI: Glycerin, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract. The only variant also intended for food supplements. Pentylene glycol variant: aqueous-glycolic system of approx. 50 % water, approx. 30 % extract and approx. 20 % pentylene glycol. INCI: Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract. Cosmetics only. Propylene glycol variant: approx. 40 % water, approx. 30 % extract and approx. 30 % propylene glycol. INCI: Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract. Explicitly not food grade according to the TDS. The choice of carrier therefore mainly affects the INCI list of the finished product and whether a project is to run in parallel in the food supplement sector. An overview of further glycerin-based extracts can be found in our collection Glycerin Extracts. Our technical team will clarify individually which variant suits a specific formulation. Bee balm in food supplements: glycerin variant only For the food sector, only the glycerin variant is intended, and it is restricted to food supplements. For the plant part, the CDS refers to the Novel Food status "not novel" in food supplements (entry POL-NF-00509). The data sheet does not state a percentage use level for food; this is agreed on request. According to the SDS, allergen labelling under the FIC Regulation is the responsibility of the food business operator. Storage, safety data and documentation When stored dry between 10 and 30 °C in the original sealed container, the extract has a shelf life of 24 months. Depending on storage time and temperature, the colour may change; should cloudiness or precipitation occur, filtration is required, which according to the product information has no effect on quality. The SDS states that the product is not classified under the CLP Regulation (EC) 1272/2008, with no pictogram, signal word or H and P statements. Further key data: WGK 1 (self-classification, all carrier variants), not dangerous goods under ADR/RID, IMDG and IATA, storage class 12 according to TRGS 510, not a biocidal product within the meaning of the BPR, and the extract is exempt from registration under REACH Annex V No. 8. Batch-specific values such as pH at 25 °C and relative density are given in the respective certificate of analysis. We provide the TDS, SDS and CDS for all three variants via our technical documentation; further leaf, flower and root extracts can be found under Classic Plant Extracts. Our technical team will answer specific formulation and dosage questions at info@coniuncta.com or +49 911 47715370. Straight to the product: View Bee Balm Extract in the CONIUNCTA® shop. CONIUNCTA®: raw materials, data and services for future-proof formulations.