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Lichenin from Beard Lichen: Beard Lichen Extract (Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract) for Astringent and Moisture-Promoting Care Concepts

With Beard Lichen Extract, CONIUNCTA® offers a cosmetic raw material whose starting material is a lichen: the INCI Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract (EU INCI: Usnea Barbata Extract) explicitly identifies its botanical origin from Usnea barbata through the addition (Lichen). The extract is obtained with purified water and is available in three carrier variants: Glycerin, Propylene Glycol and Pentylene Glycol. It is supplied in conventional quality and is intended exclusively for the cosmetics industry; food use is not intended. For formulators, the data package is of particular interest: the CDS names lichenin and isolichenin as polysaccharide primary markers, lists two further lichen acids and supports a claim profile that combines astringent, balancing and moisture-promoting statements. Lichenin and isolichenin: the polysaccharide lead marker of beard lichen The CDS identifies the polysaccharides lichenin and isolichenin as primary markers. The literature content in the dried lichen is 5 to 15 % (Olafsdottir 1999, Phytomedicine). From this, the CDS derives a calculated content in the extract of 1.1 to 4.1 mg/g. According to the data sheet, this calculation is based on a drug-extract ratio (DER) of 1:10, an extract content of 30 g/kg and an assumed extraction efficiency of 70 to 90 %. To put the composition into context: according to the product specification, the extract content is approx. 30 % regardless of the variant, and 1 kg of CONIUNCTA® extract contains the hydrophilic constituents of approx. 30 g of dried plant material. Important for your own documentation: the CDS classifies the data quality as „Review-level literature data“. This is therefore a literature-based calculation and not an analytical standardisation to a specific marker content. As a calculation example, the CDS states a polysaccharide content of 36.8 to 142 µg/g in the formulation at a use level of 3.5 %. This value helps to check the plausibility of marker information in product documentation, but is expressly not a dosage recommendation. Usnic acid and diffractaic acid: what the data sheet additionally reports In addition to the polysaccharides, the CDS lists two further documented compounds. For diffractaic acid, a range of 0.1 to 0.5 % is given. Usnic acid is listed without a quantity. For usnic acid, the CDS includes a note relevant to product safety: at higher concentrations, usnic acid is described as a photosensitiser. This note belongs in the safety assessment of the finished product, which according to the SDS is the responsibility of the responsible person under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Since the data sheet does not quantify the usnic acid content in the extract, questions about the data situation are best clarified directly with our technical team. For marker communication: lead markers within the meaning of the CDS are lichenin and isolichenin, while the two lichen acids are listed as further documented compounds. Astringent, balancing, plump-looking skin: the supported claim profile As its effect, the CDS states „Skin conditioning, antioxidant“, i.e. a skin-conditioning and antioxidant function. In addition, the data sheet lists four supported claim areas: Astringent (Astringent) Balancing (Balancing) Moisture-promoting (Moisture-promoting) Plump-looking skin (Skin-plumping) The combination of astringent and moisture-related claim areas in a single raw material is interesting for care concepts that want to bring both statements together on the packaging. The CDS expressly points out that substantiation of claims on the finished product is carried out by the responsible person in accordance with Art. 4 and Art. 20 of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and Regulation (EU) No 655/2013. The data sheet also mentions a mechanistic background, but itself labels it as „not a product claim“. We therefore deliberately do not include it in the claim list. Glycerin, Propylene Glycol or Pentylene Glycol: three hydrophilic preparations compared All variants share purified water as the extraction solvent, an extract content of approx. 30 %, the use concentration of 2 to 5 % stated in the TDS and a shelf life of 24 months. The differences lie in the carrier system and thus in the INCI declaration: Glycerin: standardisation in anhydrous glycerin (at least 99.5 %), composition approx. 70 % glycerin and approx. 30 % extract. Global INCI: Glycerin, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract; EU INCI: Glycerin, Usnea Barbata Extract. No Aqua appears in the declaration of this variant. Propylene Glycol: aqueous-glycolic preparation of approx. 40 % water, approx. 30 % extract and approx. 30 % Propylene Glycol. Global INCI: Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract; EU INCI: Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Usnea Barbata Extract. Pentylene Glycol: Pentylene Glycol/water mixture of approx. 50 % water, approx. 30 % extract and approx. 20 % Pentylene Glycol. Global INCI: Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract; EU INCI: Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Usnea Barbata Extract. The decisive factor for selection is therefore which carrier fits the existing INCI list and the glycol concept of the formulation. If you want to declare a formulation without Propylene Glycol, the Glycerin and Pentylene Glycol variants offer two alternatives; if you want to avoid additional Aqua in the declaration, the Glycerin variant is the right option. According to the CDS, all variants are suitable for vegan formulations. The Glycerin variant can also be found in our overview of glycerin extracts. Specification, storage and safety data for purchasing and QA The colour is specified as amber to light brown. The pH value at 25 °C and the relative density are item-specific target values for each carrier variant and are stated in the CoA, not in the TDS. Temperature-dependent colour changes may occur during storage. If turbidity or precipitation occurs, filtration is required, which according to the product information has no influence on quality. The TDS specifies dry storage at 10 to 30 °C in the original sealed container, while the SDS lists a storage temperature of 15 to 25 °C with the container tightly closed. The SDS provides clear key data for purchasing and logistics: no classification as a hazardous substance under CLP (EC 1272/2008) and no labelling requirement, non-flammable, storage class 12 according to TRGS 510, WGK 1 (slightly hazardous to water, self-classification for all carrier variants) and not dangerous goods under ADR/RID, IMDG or IATA. A REACH registration number is not applicable, as the product is a mixture and the extract is exempt under Annex V No. 8. The product is not a biocidal product under Regulation 528/2012 and is not subject to Seveso III. For eye protection, the SDS specifies safety glasses according to EN 166. Regarding fragrance allergens under Annex III, the CDS states „Not derivable“. Documentation, quality and enquiries We provide the TDS, SDS and CDS for Beard Lichen Extract via our technical documentation, and the CoA with batch-specific values accompanies every delivery. Beard Lichen Extract is available in conventional quality. Extracts from our EU organic certified range can be identified by the prefix BIO in the product name. You can find more raw materials of this type in the category Classic Plant Extracts. Our technical team answers specific formulation and dosage questions as well as queries about the data on individual compounds individually, by email at info@coniuncta.com or by phone at +49 911 47715370. All variants, specifications and documents at a glance: View Beard Lichen Extract in the CONIUNCTA® shop. CONIUNCTA®: Raw materials, data and services for future-proof formulations.