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Vanillin from the Vanilla Pod: Vanilla Extract (Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract) between Cosmetics, Food and Annex III

The vanilla extract from CONIUNCTA® (INCI: Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract) is obtained from the fruit of Vanilla planifolia. Purified water serves as the extraction solvent. We offer the liquid extract in three carrier variants: glycerin, pentylene glycol and propylene glycol. The extract is available in conventional quality. It is interesting for formulators for two reasons. First, the CDS documents vanillin as the primary marker, complemented by glucovanillin and vanillic acid. Second, the glycerin variant is suitable not only for cosmetics but also for food. At the same time, vanillin deserves close regulatory consideration with regard to Annex III of the Cosmetics Regulation, which we present transparently in this article. Vanillin as primary marker: what the CDS states for the fruit extract In the Chemical Data Sheet (CDS), vanillin is listed as the primary marker. The content in the product is stated as 210 to 810 µg/g. Important for interpretation: this is a calculated value, not a measured one. The document explicitly labels it as a semi-quantitative estimate based on limited data ("Limited data, semi-quantitative estimate"). The figure should therefore be understood as a calculated reference value. As the literature content of the raw botanical material, the CDS cites 1 to 3 % vanillin in dried, cured vanilla pods (Ranadive 1992, Sinha et al. 2008). In addition to vanillin, the CDS lists two further compounds: glucovanillin and vanillic acid. Regardless of the carrier variant, the composition is as follows: the extract content is approx. 30 %, and 1 kg of CONIUNCTA® extract contains the hydrophilic constituents of approx. 30 g of dried plant parts. One additional CDS statement is helpful for raw material evaluation: according to the document, coumarin is not a constituent of Vanilla planifolia. Skin conditioning and antioxidant: the documented cosmetic profile For cosmetics, the CDS lists the functions "Skin conditioning, antioxidant". The supported claim area stated is "Conditioning". For product development, this means: the vanilla extract is documented as a skin-caring (skin-conditioning) and antioxidant plant extract. We do not derive any further efficacy statements from the data sheet. Although the CDS names a target ("General skin health"), it explicitly marks it as "not a product claim". It is therefore not suitable as a basis for product claims. The CDS and all three TDS consistently state a use level of 2 to 5 % in cosmetics. All carrier variants are suitable for cosmetic applications, and according to the CDS the product is suitable for vegans. Which variant makes sense for a specific concept depends mainly on two questions: which carrier system is desired, and should the same raw material base also be used in the food sector? Vanillin and Annex III: calculated values for labelling assessment For cosmetic formulators, the regulatory section of the CDS is particularly relevant. There, vanillin is listed as entry 346 in Annex III of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. This results in labelling thresholds of 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in rinse-off products. Based on the upper estimate of the vanillin content, the CDS calculates the following limits: in leave-on products the threshold is reached at a use level of approx. 1.2 %, in rinse-off products at approx. 12 %. The CDS also contains calculation examples. At a use level of 3.5 % in a cosmetic formulation, the calculated result is 7.4 to 28.4 µg/g vanillin in the finished product. At 1.25 % in a food, it is 2.6 to 10.1 µg/g. For transparency, we point out a contradiction: on page 2, the document also contains the opposite statement that vanillin is not an Annex III fragrance allergen. In addition, the content figures are calculated and not measured. The labelling question should therefore be examined as part of the safety assessment, which under Regulation 1223/2009 is in any case the responsibility of the responsible person for the finished product. Our technical team will be happy to clarify specific formulation and labelling questions individually. Glycerin, pentylene glycol or propylene glycol: three carriers compared All three variants are extracted with purified water and contain approx. 30 % extract. They differ in the carrier system and thus in the INCI of the overall product: Glycerin variant: approx. 70 % glycerin (anhydrous, ≥ 99.5 %) and approx. 30 % extract. INCI: Glycerin, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract. The only variant suitable for food. Pentylene glycol variant: aqueous-glycolic with approx. 50 % water, approx. 30 % extract and approx. 20 % pentylene glycol. INCI: Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract. For cosmetics only. Propylene glycol variant: aqueous-glycolic with approx. 40 % water, approx. 30 % extract and approx. 30 % propylene glycol. INCI: Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract. For cosmetics only, not food grade according to the TDS. In practical terms for selection: anyone looking for an anhydrous carrier base or wishing to cover cosmetics and food with the same raw material should choose the glycerin variant. The two glycolic variants contain water and add pentylene glycol or propylene glycol to the INCI list. Which glycol carrier better fits an existing raw material concept or INCI strategy depends on the overall formulation concept. Our glycerin extracts collection provides an overview of further extracts with this carrier base. Vanilla extract in the food sector: glycerin only For food and food supplement manufacturers, the distinction is clear: only the glycerin variant is suitable for food. According to the TDS, the pentylene glycol and propylene glycol variants are not food grade. The CDS lists the extract in the food sector as a "Traditional dietary ingredient" and states a use level of 0.5 to 2 %. The glycerin TDS classifies this range as a literature value for functional food and beverages. From a regulatory perspective, the safety data sheet points out that allergen labelling under Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 is the responsibility of the food business operator. For plant-based product concepts, vegan suitability according to the CDS is also relevant information. Storage, stability and safety data According to the TDS, the shelf life is 24 months when stored dry between 10 and 30 °C in the original sealed container. The safety data sheet specifies a storage temperature of 15 to 25 °C and tightly closed storage. It cannot be ruled out that the colour may change during storage depending on temperature. Should turbidity or precipitation occur, filtration is required. This does not affect product quality. Colour, odour, pH value (25 °C) and relative density are stated in the certificate of analysis (CoA). According to the SDS, the extract is not classified as hazardous under the CLP Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008. There are no pictograms, no signal word and no H or P statements. The product is not dangerous goods under ADR/RID, IMDG and IATA. All carrier variants are self-classified as WGK 1 (slightly hazardous to water). REACH registration is not required, and the product is not a biocidal product within the meaning of Regulation (EU) No 528/2012. For handling, the SDS specifies safety goggles according to EN 166. Request data sheets and discuss your project For raw material approval, we provide TDS, SDS and CDS. Information on access can be found on our Technical Documentation (TDS/SDS/CDS) page. The vanilla extract is part of our classic plant extracts. CONIUNCTA® is EU organic certified under Regulation (EU) 2018/848; however, this extract is offered in conventional quality. Our technical team will answer questions on variant selection, Annex III assessment or food use at info@coniuncta.com or +49 911 47715370. View vanilla extract in the CONIUNCTA® shop CONIUNCTA®: raw materials, data and services for future-ready formulations.