Indigo Extract (INCI: Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract) is obtained from the leaf of the indigo plant and is available from CONIUNCTA® in three water-based carrier variants (Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, and Pentylene Glycol) as a clear liquid. For formulators, it is of interest as a vegan-suitable raw material with the documented lead marker Indican and the accompanying compound Indirubin. This article outlines the markers, carrier systems, use concentration, and regulatory classification for cosmetic application.
Indican: the documented lead marker from the indigo leaf
Characteristic of Indigo Extract is the primary marker Indican (indoxyl glucoside). In the product, the calculated range according to the CDS is 105 to 540 µg/mL; at an extract use level of 3.5%, this corresponds to a calculated 3.7 to 18.9 µg/mL in the finished formulation. As a literature value for the dried plant, 0.5 to 2% is stated (source: Maugard 2001, J Biotechnol; data confidence: review-level literature data). As a further documented compound, the data sheet lists Indirubin at 0.01 to 0.1% (documented bioactivity). These markers originate exclusively from the leaf of Indigofera Tinctoria of plant origin.
Documented efficacy profile for skin care
The CDS describes the effect of Indigo Extract as "Skin conditioning, antioxidant." As mechanistic background (not a product claim), general skin health is mentioned. The claim areas supported by the data sheet include Balancing, Glow / Radiance, Conditioning, and Skin-plumping. Important for practice: these claim areas are starting points, not ready-made claims. Any advertising statement on the finished product requires independent substantiation by the finished product manufacturer in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 655/2013.
Three carrier variants compared
All variants of Indigo Extract are water-based, clear liquids with a characteristic color. They differ in the standardization medium and thus in composition:
- Glycerin variant (INCI: Glycerin, Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract): extraction solvent purified water, standardized in glycerin (≥ 99.5%, anhydrous); composition approx. 70% glycerin, approx. 30% extract fraction.
- Propylene glycol variant (INCI: Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract): propylene glycol/water mixture as standardization medium; composition approx. 40% water, approx. 30% extract, approx. 30% propylene glycol.
- Pentylene glycol variant (INCI: Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract): aqueous glycolic preparation with pentylene glycol/water mixture as standardization medium.
Regardless of the variant, the extract content is approx. 30%. The choice of the suitable variant depends on the intended system design and the rest of the formulation architecture. Our technical team is happy to clarify specific formulation and dosage questions individually.
Use concentration, key parameters, and processing
The documented use concentration in cosmetics is 2 to 5%. The color is stated as amber to light brown, with a density of 1.03 to 1.06. The DER (Drug-Extract-Ratio) is specified for the propylene glycol variant: extract fraction 1:10 (dried) or 1:3.3 to 1:0.9 (fresh), total product 1:33.3 (dried) or 1:11.1 to 1:3.0 (fresh). pH value, relative density, and refractive index are batch-specific and can be found in the respective CoA. Note from the data sheet: color changes may occur during storage and depending on temperature; if turbidity or precipitation occurs, filtration is required without this affecting product quality.
Safety, storage, and regulatory framework
According to the SDS, Indigo Extract is not a hazardous substance and is not classified under Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 (CLP); PBT/vPvB properties as well as endocrine-disrupting properties (≥ 0.1%) are not present. Eye protection is recommended when handling; skin protection is not required, respiratory protection only in case of aerosol formation. Storage should be in a tightly closed container, recommended at 15 to 25 °C; shelf life is 24 months under dry storage between 10 and 30 °C in the original sealed container. For use: as a cosmetic raw material, the extract is suitable in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009; safety assessment is the responsibility of the responsible person of the finished product. Use in food is not supported by the data sheets: placing on the market as a food is subject to authorization under the Novel Food Regulation (EU) 2015/2283.
Documentation and sourcing for formulators
All key parameters, markers, and regulatory information on Indigo Extract are available via the technical documentation (TDS/SDS/CDS); batch-specific values can be found in the respective CoA. The extract is produced using our AVE Technology (Adaptive Vacuum Extraction). You can find further plant-based raw materials in our category classic plant extracts. Our technical team is available for specific project selection: View Indigo Extract in the CONIUNCTA® Shop.
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