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Acmella Oleracea Extract

Paracress Oil Extract (Acmella Oleracea Extract): Spilanthol as Lead Marker for Muscle-Relaxing Pro-Age Formulations

The paracress oil extract (INCI: Acmella Oleracea Extract) from CONIUNCTA® is an anhydrous, lipophilic preparation derived from the plant Acmella oleracea. Its characteristic feature is the lead marker spilanthol, an alkylamide from the group of N-isobutylamides. The extract is available in three lipophilic carrier variants (jojoba oil, squalane, and sunflower oil) and is aimed at formulators who want to implement muscle-relaxing and wrinkle-reducing approaches in oil-based systems.

Spilanthol: the documented lead marker

The primary marker of the extract is spilanthol, an alkylamide (N-isobutylamide). According to the CDS, the indicative concentration in the product is 122 to 473 µg/mL; the CoA-validated reference value of an aqueous extract is stated at approximately 119 µg/mL. No additional compounds are documented in the data sheet, so the activity profile is clearly focused on this lead marker.

Regardless of the carrier variant, the extract content is approximately 30%. One kilogram of CONIUNCTA® extract contains the lipophilic constituents from a defined quantity of plant material, which supports reproducible marker consistency across batches.

Activity profile for cosmetic applications

For cosmetic use, the CDS documents the following properties: astringent, skin-plumping, and pro-age. In addition, the effect is described verbatim as "relaxes facial micro-muscles, reduces expression lines", meaning a relaxation of the facial micro-muscles with a reduction of expression lines. The data sheet lists Nav1.7 sodium channels and TRPV1 as cosmetic targets.

This allows the extract to be associated with the claims documented in the product: muscle-relaxing and wrinkle-reducing. We formulate these statements closely based on the data sheet and without going beyond it with further generalizations.

Three lipophilic carrier variants compared

The paracress oil extract is consistently anhydrous and oil-based. The carrier systems differ in INCI and matrix:

  • Jojoba oil: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Acmella Oleracea Extract; approximately 70% jojoba oil, approximately 30% extract fraction.
  • Squalane: Squalane, Acmella Oleracea Extract; plant-derived squalane as the standardization medium, approx. 70% carrier and approx. 30% extract fraction.
  • Sunflower oil: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Acmella Oleracea Extract; approx. 70% sunflower oil, approx. 30% extract fraction.

All variants are lipophilic and are therefore suitable for oil-based or emulsified systems. The choice of matrix depends on the sensory profile, compatibility, and desired skin feel of the target formulation. An overview of further oil-based raw materials can be found in our sunflower oil extracts.

Use concentrations and marker yield

The recommended use concentration in cosmetics is 2 to 3%, with the general product recommendation being 2 to 5%. At 2.5%, the extract provides, according to CDS calculations, 3.1 to 11.8 µg/mL spilanthol in the finished formulation. For the food sector (such as functional beverages and oral care), the data sheet specifies 0.5 to 2%; at 1.3%, this yields 1.5 to 5.9 µg/mL spilanthol. We do not provide specific formulation suggestions; our technical team offers individual consultation.

Food use and regulatory status

For food applications, the Novel Food status under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 must be observed; a corresponding authorization is required. In the food context, the CDS documents the properties "digestive stimulant" and "sialagogue, saliva production" with the targets salivary glands and oral mucosal nerve endings. Responsibility for assessing the suitability of a given application lies with the user.

Safety, storage, and documentation

According to the SDS, the product is not a hazardous substance under Regulation (EC) No. 1272/2008 and is not classified as dangerous goods; it exhibits no PBT/vPvB properties. The shelf life is 24 months when stored dry between 10 and 30 °C in the original sealed container. Temperature- and storage-related changes in color, turbidity, or precipitation may occur; filtration is possible if necessary and does not affect product quality. Technical documents (TDS, SDS, CDS) are made available to registered customers via our technical documentation. Background information on our manufacturing process can be found on the page about AVE technology.

Ordering and consultation

We supply the paracress oil extract in the three lipophilic carrier variants described for cosmetic applications and, subject to the Novel Food status, for food projects. All specifications, the marker profile, and the appropriate carrier selection are clarified together in the context of your project. View the paracress oil extract in the CONIUNCTA® shop or explore the full range via the product list.

CONIUNCTA® - Raw materials, data, and services for future-ready formulations.

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