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Alchemilla Vulgaris

Lady's Mantle Extract (Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract): Ellagitannins as Astringent Lead Marker in Three Carrier Variants

Frauenmantel (Alchemilla vulgaris) mit charakteristisch gefächerten Blättern, Ausgangsmaterial für den CONIUNCTA-Extrakt.

Lady's mantle (Alchemilla vulgaris) provides, with the CONIUNCTA® Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, an ellagitannin-rich, aqueous-glycerolic or aqueous-glycolic extract with the INCI designation Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract. The extract is available in three carrier variants: Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol and Glycerin. For formulators, it combines a clearly documented polyphenol profile with an astringent and balancing application focus, thereby covering both skin care and, in the glycerin variant, functional food applications.

Ellagitannins as the analytical lead marker

The characteristic marker of the lady's mantle extract is the ellagitannins, calculated in total as ellagic acid. The content in the dried plant, according to the literature (Hagers Handbuch, Wichtl 2009), lies between 2 and 8 percent; the product itself indicates an indicative range of 0.5 to 2.5 mg/mL. The underlying data is of review-level character. As a further documented compound, the extract contains quercetin glycosides in a range of 0.5 to 1 percent.

The native extract has a DER of 1:10, and the extract fraction of the final product is around 30 percent. At an extract usage of 2 percent, this equates to a calculated 10.0 to 50.0 µg/mL ellagitannins introduced into the formulation. This figure allows a comprehensible calculation of the marker input via the chosen usage concentration.

Documented efficacy profile: astringent, balancing, pro-age

The effects documented in the CDS for ellagic acid include astringent, antioxidant and pore-refining properties. The regulatory-supported claim areas for cosmetics on record are astringent, balancing, elasticity support, glow/radiance, hormone-balancing as well as pro-age. As molecular targets, the data sheet lists protein precipitation (the basis of the astringent effect) and MMP-1 inhibition.

For formulators, this means a clearly defined field of application: astringent and pore-refining care concepts, balancing formulations for a more even skin texture, as well as pro-age approaches relating to elasticity. The claims are closely tied to the data sheet; further-reaching medical or disease-related statements are not part of the documentation.

Comparison of three carrier variants

The extract is available in three standardization media, which differ in composition and application context:

  • Glycerin (INCI: Glycerin, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract): glycerolic preparation with approx. 30 percent extract content and approx. 70 percent glycerin (anhydrous, ≥ 99.5%). According to the data sheet, this variant is suitable for food applications.
  • Propylene Glycol (INCI: Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract): composition approx. 40 percent water, 30 percent extract and 30 percent propylene glycol.
  • Pentylene Glycol (INCI: Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract): composition approx. 50 percent water, 30 percent extract and 20 percent pentylene glycol.

All variants are suitable for cosmetic applications (EC No. 1223/2009). The selection depends on the carrier system of the target formulation and the desired functional additional benefit of the diol. Our technical team is available to clarify specific formulation and selection questions individually.

Usage concentration and formulation framework

For cosmetic applications, a general usage concentration of 2 to 5 percent is documented; for a specific cosmetic claim, 1 to 3 percent is indicated. For functional foods and beverages, the data sheet states a range of 0.5 to 2 percent, whereby an application of 1.3 percent calculates to 6.3 to 31.3 µg/mL ellagitannins. The extract is a raw material for further processing; the final suitability assessment for the respective application lies with the processing company.

The product's color ranges from amber to light brown, with a density between 1.03 and 1.06. It is a clear liquid with a characteristic color. Note that color changes as well as possible turbidity or precipitation may occur depending on storage and temperature; filtration is possible in such cases and does not impair product quality.

Regulatory status, purity and food suitability

The extract is free of fragrance allergens subject to labeling requirements under Annex III of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and is suitable for vegan formulations. According to the safety data sheet, it is not a hazardous substance under Regulation (EC) No. 1272/2008: no pictogram, no signal word, no H- or P-statements required. It is not a PBT or vPvB substance, and no endocrine-disrupting properties are indicated under the relevant REACH provisions. The glycerin carrier variant is suitable for food applications and addresses the areas nutritional antioxidant and traditional dietary ingredient listed in the data sheet.

Shelf life is 24 months under dry storage in the original sealed container between 10 and 30 °C. CONIUNCTA® extracts are manufactured in Germany using the proprietary AVE technology (Adaptive Vacuum Extraction). All batch-specific parameters (pH, relative density, refractive index) can be found in the respective CoA and are available via our technical documentation.

Positioning within the portfolio and sourcing

The lady's mantle extract joins our range of classic plant extracts and complements, in particular, astringent and pro-age-oriented formulation concepts. For aqueous and glycerolic systems, the glycerin variant is available, which is additionally documented for food applications; the diol variants Pentylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol offer options for different cosmetic carrier systems. Formulators, buyers and product developers can find all three variants in the shop: view Lady's Mantle Extract in the CONIUNCTA® shop. Our technical team is happy to advise individually on carrier selection and integration into existing formulations.

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